The Dragon’s Back Race: Six days, 380km, 17,400m of ascent. A rugged North-South traverse of Wales from Conwy to Cardiff.
Day 1 – Enter the Dragon
Stat’s (distance | ascent) from start to:
- Support point (Ogwen Valley) – 29km | 1800m
- Water point (Pen-y-Pass) – 37km | 2800m
- Finish (Nant Gwynant) – 50km | 4100m
Conwy Castle 5:30am. Darkness, damp air, apprehension, and excitement swirl around the 2025 Dragon’s Back adventurers gathered within the castle’s ancient keep. The clock creeps toward six. Above, shouts of encouragement drift down from supporting sentinels on the battlements. With a burst of dragon-red flame and curling smoke, the runners are released into Conwy’s rain-slicked streets; ahead an adventure along the wild spine of Cymru to its capital and another castle.
Narrow paths lead toward the first of many summits: Conwy’s mountain, cradled between the sea to the north and Eryri’s mighty mass to the south. To the east, a red sunrise bleeds across the sky—heralding the morning, and offering its ancient warning to the silhouetted flock of runners…
Over the Carneddau, time already chasing at their heels, the runners, me included, stream through streams—wind and rain rising sharply with elevation, vision and views limited by hood and cloud. Foel Grach’s shelter offers respite for some, while others press on into the maelstrom. I break from the flock, traversing below my namesake summit, Dafydd—seeking advantage, but gaining none, save a brief reprieve from the elements. On, on over Pen yr Ole Wen, its steep, rocky, streaming flank testing patience and quads in descent. Streams boil in spate, demanding respect and care to cross; Ourea’s hill team show the safest way and I’m grateful. At last, Ogwen Valley bottom: a moment of relief and respite; roadside supporters, including Sue and Willow, and the support point offer succour for the climb ahead.
Well-made steps aid the ascent to Tryfan’s rocky ramparts, and spirits lift as the cloud begins to break. Poles away—hands on rock for the final scramble to the summit’s guardian stones, Adam and Eve. Pause. Take in the view. Enjoy the moment. Then: care in descent, focus sharpening to weave the best line through a tangle of boulders—unlocking the route to easier ground. Tiptoe up a loose gully, Bristly Ridge brooding & belligerent above. Over the Glyderau’s heavy rock architecture, with views sweeping down to Bethesda’s sunlit valley and Anglesey—a classical pastoral counterpoint. Nail a clean line down from Glyder Fawr to Pen-y-Pass, where Sue, Willow, and water point await.
No Crib Goch today: too windy, too wet—not safe, and a sensible decision by the event team to re-route. Up the Pyg Track then: easy, sheltered, but seemingly endless as it winds toward Cymru’s highest point. Recollecting my sun-blessed recce of the hidden and forbidden rocky, knife edge ridge above creates a fleeting, fictitious feeling of dry warmth. Wind and cloud return at Bwlch Glas, hastening progress to the summit of Yr Wyddfa. No crowds, no views today—just a quick tap of the trig, a glance at the inviting café, and on to Lliwedd. Lose height quickly; regain it slowly.
The day is almost done, but there’s work still: focus, movement, and concentration over unfamiliar but runnable ground to the final checkpoint, Gallt y Wenallt—a fine, lofty perch above the night’s welcoming camp, 500 metres below. One final challenge: steep, slippy grass requiring balance, grip, and close attention. But safely down & done before darkness, with no faff—the day’s goal achieved.
Ease into camp on an easy track, with Sue and Willow distracting from weariness and the quiet worry of Day 2. Camplife: eat; download and digest Dragon Mail’s virtual energy; sort kit ready to go again at 6am; too little sleep before the tent reluctantly rustles into life just after 4.
Day 2 – Dancing with the Dragon
Stat’s (distance | ascent) from start to:
- Water point (Maentwrog) – 19km | 1200m
- Support point (Cwm Bychan) – 37km | 2600m
- Finish (Dolgellau) 60km | 3200m
Everything done for a purpose, no distraction—just the simple focus on relentless forward progress to Cardiff. In the dark: pack the transit bag for reunion at day’s end; tea; breakfast; kit check. Two hours gone in a blur of headtorch light. 6 a.m.—time to go again, tea and waffle in hand: second breakfast.
An easy roll-out—flat tarmac for a few kilometres, legs loosening, spirits lifted by morning greetings from Sue and urgent barks from Willow. The sky begins to open—weather’s better, dawn breaking, body willing. But comfort is short-lived. Soon enough, it’s poles out as we all lean into the first of the day’s many steep ascents.
Ahead, cloud-wrapped Cnicht: a dark knight in morning. No words now—just breath and effort. The real work has begun.
I fall in step with Caz the Hat—a Dragon’s Back legend and one of the loveliest people you could hope to meet—and his equally wonderful daughter, Carolyn. They’re aiming to become the first father-daughter team to complete the journey from Conwy to Cardiff. But they carry more than just ambition. They carry the memory of a friend who longed to make the same pilgrimage… but never got the chance. It’s a quiet reminder: we are lucky—privileged—to be moving freely through this landscape, when so many elsewhere—in Palestine, Ukraine, Sudan, Pas-de-Calais—face unimaginable hardship, fear, and constraint.
Caz expertly traces a clean line off Cnicht and across to Moelwyn Mawr. The going is hard but satisfying—easier than on the recce. Second summit done, we begin the long, rough descent through a landscape scarred by human hand: hydroelectric schemes, slate mines, railway tracks. But there’s nature too—twisted oak woods, tumbling waterfalls, the white flash of a dipper’s breast, and the mew of buzzards overhead. All is good. We spread out on the easier ground and I lose touch with Caz and Carolyn. Run your own race at your own pace Dave.
A brief dwell at the welcome water point—refuel, chat, reset. But no shilly-shallying—there’s a job to do. The weather holds, spirits lift as Sue and Willow appear again with welcome cheer, and a stretch of runnable miles leads across the valley floor to the crux of the day: the Rhinogs and their roughest bounds.
The lead runners pass by—mutual nods, shared encouragement. We’re all in this together, bound by respect and a simple, common endeavour: get to Cardiff.
Then: decision time. An untested, distance-saving line proffered by Caz back in Conwy—or the safety of the known, rehearsed way. No contest. Over the stile, off the trail, into the unknown.
Confidence is quickly rewarded—Caz’s silhouette appears on the skyline, showing the way. But soon, high stone walls bar the way and sow seeds of doubt. Some increasingly desperate scouting—and a little creativity—finds a way through without breaking the countryside code. Relief. I rejoin the race line, having definitely gained. This time, risk pays off. Relax. Trust in Caz.
Soon, another Caz-induced choice. No hesitation now—I split from the train of runners, traversing ragged Rhinog slopes. Heather, rock, and ankle-twisting tussocks test belief and balance. But again, a distinctive, tall figure appears on the ridge ahead—a mobile be-hatted beacon showing the way. The route rejoins the main trail with clear time and effort saved. Thanks Caz.
A sporty but well-beaten descent from the trig on Moel Ysgyfarnogod follows—rough but familiar.
Then—a jarring intrusion. Human faeces and tissue, right on the narrow path into idyllic Cwm Bychan. Maybe a Dragon, maybe not. Either way, it breaks the spell. A moment of ugliness in a place that deserves better. I want to believe we’re all better than this—but not everyone shows the same respect for the land we’re lucky to cross. The same goes for litter. Some carry more out than they brought in. Others don’t bother.
The calm friendliness of the support point helps restore balance—but midges discourage lingering. Noodles and Complan (separately!) are slurped down, bottles refilled, and it’s back to the trail. The Roman Steps offer a gentle re-entry into the Rhinogs’ wild embrace, but a crossing wall soon signals steeper, rougher ground ahead.
Concentration and steady effort bring the rocky summit slopes into reach—and then, a surprise: Sue and Willow waiting on the summit of Rhinog Fawr. Their presence, and the sweeping, champion views, lift the spirits sky-high. What a day.
Another tricky descent leads to the “collector’s” climb up Rhinog Fach. It was a brute on the recce—and today, it delivers again. No bilberries to distract me this time. The Rhinogs keep dishing it out: punishing down, steep up. But this is the final summit of the day. From here, the trail finally eases. The view west over Llyn Hywel and out to the shining coast is a banquet for the eyes. Marvellous.
After a long stretch of solo running, I am grateful to be reunited with Caz and Carolyn leading a weary group along a path of lesser resistance—skirting a rocky ridge and shaving off a few metres of ascent. That’s it. The last descent. The Rhinogs drop into the rearview.
Just eight kilometres of forest track and tarmac lie between us and camp. After such a long day, the “run the runnable” mantra is hard to honour, but I find the reserves to follow it—across the elegant wooden toll bridge over the beautiful Mawddach estuary, and where Sue and Willow bid me a cheery, heartfelt goodnight.
The few flat final miles are covered in a tired walk/run grind, distraction in the consumption of leftover food: a dark chocolate Tunnock’s wafer and cheese & onion Hula Hoops—Dragon ambrosia.
I cross the line as darkness falls, the race clock ticking past 8 p.m.—relief and deep satisfaction flooding in.
There’s talk of wet and windy weather ahead, and a reminder to pack additional cold-weather kit. But nothing diminishes the glow of a long, brilliant day spent moving efficiently and with purpose through beautiful, brutal terrain; not even my deep fatigue.
Camp life resumes: eat; Dragon Mail delight; sort kit; prepare to go again at 6 a.m. Another night of too-little food and sleep, before the tent gently groans to life just after four.
Day 3 – The Dragon Within
Stat’s (distance | ascent) from start to:
- Water Point (Abergynolwyn) – 25km | 1200m
- Support point (Machynlleth) – 40km | 1800m
- Finish (Ceredigion) – 66km | 2900m
A different day, but the same early-morning, torch-lit routine. On the start line for the opening hour—and away…
A warm hug and whispered encouragement from Sue as the route passes out of our common overnight campsite, into the quiet stillness of still-sleeping Dolgellau. It’s not raining—yet. Gratefulness for small mercies.
The town is left behind and the climbing begins—up, up towards the hulking mass of Cadair Idris, Eryri’s southern sentinel. There’s a bit of low-key chit-chat as the Dragon’s pack sorts itself into an order defined by our relative ability, energy and drive.
The forecast weather arrives bang on cue—as we hit the crest of Cadair’s broad back. Perfect timing. No views this morning to lift the soul—just a form of sensory deprivation: the body numbed, visibility reduced to a hood-framed patch of sodden turf, the only sound the drum, drum, drumming of rain and wind on Gore-Tex.
It’s no worse than Day 1 over the Carneddau—but accumulated fatigue makes it feel heavier. The only comfort? A small tumbler of Coke handed to me by two supporting angels—proof, at least, that my sense of taste is still working.
Cadair Idris’s rocky summit is slow to arrive. The encouragement of a few hardy supporters bounces off my Gore-Tex shell, lost to the wind and rain. The more technical descent demands sharper focus—enough to momentarily silence the internal grumbling. I should be celebrating: there’s no higher summit between here and Cardiff. Instead, I’m bog-bimbling through the clag, passed by faster runners who ghost by in the mist.
A sliver of concentration as I work to spot an alternate line—short-lived shelter, easier underfoot, and a few metres of ascent saved. Back on the main route, just in time to see a runner in my periphery lurch forward and face-plant into the mire. Thankfully, they bounce up and carry on. The Dragon is demanding a lot of us this morning.
The foul weather chases us down off the mountain and into the valley. With no hint of irony, a runner mentions a farm ahead has an outside tap, “if I’m thirsty.” Thirsty? When I’m wetter than an otter’s pocket? It makes me laugh, at least.
Tarmac now across the valley bottom. I summon enough will to “run the runnable” and quicken my arrival at Abergynolwyn, where the water point and a café await. But first: a riverside bridleway I had enjoyed on the recce—today, merely endured.
At the checkpoint, I down a Complan and keep moving. The rain still falls, and the queue for the café is longer than my patience. I press on.
Then, a lift in spirits—a freshly graded path climbs through a beautiful wooded valley, tracing the line of swollen, noisy waterfalls. Senses stir. The sky lightens. Is the low passing?
We leave the wood and valley bottom behind, onto long, comfortably inclined forestry zigzags. Ourea’s course ops ring out encouragement with a massive cowbell, making sure no one’s cutting corners.
The rain hardens as the altitude rises. With no other stimulus, doubt creeps in.
And for the first time, I feel it: The pull to stop. To quit.
I argue back:
- The weather’s easing.
- I’m uninjured.
- No blisters.
- Still ahead of the cut-offs.
- Still progressing relentlessly forward.
“Just get to Machynlleth, Mackie,” I tell myself. Eat. Drink. Be merrier. March on toward Cardiff.
But a counter-voice bites back repeatedly: Why do you want to get to Cardiff? Why, why, why, why?
Gone are the broadleaf woods and the tumbling cascades. Now: the ragged remnants of industrial clear-felling—a Smaug-seared landscape made real.
And in that desolate setting, the questioning voice returns: How much do I really want this?
I’ve moved efficiently, effectively, over Eryri’s rocky spine for two and a half long, demanding, deeply satisfying days.
And that—that feels like enough.
No drama. No despair.
Just clarity.
My will to complete the Dragon’s Back is not strong enough.
Decision made.
However, I still need to get over Tarren y Gesail. The wind and rain return in abundance; the cloud-shroud summit is dismal, like my mood. A steep grassy descent leads into forestry. Even as a young child, I disliked forest tracks; they were so BOOOOOORING!. On family walks, I’d insist on taking any side path that looked more interesting. I haven’t changed in the subsequent half century. The next few kilometres do nothing to test my resolve to stop.
As I reach the outskirts of Machynlleth and the Afon Dyfi, Sue—and of course Willow—are there to greet me. Her unwavering support has been a bright thread running through this shorter than hoped for journey, and our life together. I settle onto the old bridge’s balustrade and share my decision. She listens with care, gently tests my intent, and counters it. After all, the weather has eased, I’m within reach of the support point with around two hours to spare before cut-off—and from there, just 25 kilometres to camp.
So I walk into town and, at the first chance, forage a hot Cornish pasty—dribblingly tasty and swiftly devoured. I should have bought two. In the busy main street, I am overwhelmed by the bustle of ordinary folk doing ordinary things. A track leads out of town to the support point, tucked into a rustic orchard. But this time, it’s me in the chair, being urged to continue rather than the one urging others on.
Andy, like Sue, probes my decision and champions continuation; it’s a persuasive pitch from someone who I know offers wise counsel. I sit and reflect amidst the support point bustle; time passes. Then Caz and Carolyn arrive—brisk, purposeful, glowing with intent. Their passion to reach Cardiff and for the event burns fierce and clear—a wonder to witness. They, and all those still chasing that Cardiff dream, have my utmost admiration. I silently will them on and wish them godspeed.
But I hold firm to the choice made earlier, forged in fatigue and the felled forest. My journey ends here. I rise and walk back the way I came.
The Dragon’s Back, for me, is done. And I’m content with that.
Thanks & Gratitude
None of this would have been possible without the phenomenal team at Ourea Events. Their professionalism, dedication, and attention to detail creats the structure and safety net that allows so many of us to journey across big, beautiful landscapes. Huge thanks too to their ever-cheerful event volunteers—out on wild ridgelines, at support and water points, in midgy valleys, and behind the scenes—whose encouragement, kindness, and enthusiasm in challenging conditions, and in all things, makes Ourea events what they are.
To friends and family who tracked dots, sent messages, and offered remote morale boosts—thank you. To club mates, running friends and fellow Dragons who offered advice, belief, and inspiration—thank you too. To the spirit of the Dragon’s Back Race personified, Caz, gratefulness for sowing the seed over five years ago during post-Preseli Beast shenanigans in The Globe, and subsequent friendship, inspiration and tip-top tips on tactical trods in the Rhinogs.
And above all, to Sue—steadfast in all weathers, relentless in support, and always there at the right time in the right place with the right words, and Willow in tow. With all my heartfelt thanks, and deepest, enduring love.
A Footnote on Foot Care
Over the past few years, I’ve spent a lot of time tramping and running long distances over hilly, rough ground in all weathers. In that time, and while volunteering at events where folk are doing similar, I’ve learned that blisters, bruised toenails, and general foot carnage are more than just occupational hazards—they can be painful companions at best, and race-ending liabilities at worst.
Keen to avoid these pitfalls, I started paying close attention to foot care—not just my own, but that of others too. While volunteering at events like the Winter Spine, Cape Wrath Ultra, and the Dragon’s Back Race , I observed what the uninjured runners were doing differently. The answer, like most things in ultra-running, boiled down to two things: preparation and consistency.
My footcare regime:
- Daily moisturising – I use O’Keeffe’s to keep my feet soft and supple; there are many, many alternatives. The goal is smooth, resilient skin, not dry, cracked, calloused. I haven’t used pedicures or pumice stones, but others do – either way, look after your peg-ends like you’re preparing for a foot modelling career.
- Barrier cream before runs – applied to reduce the impact of friction and moisture. I use Musher’s Secret (See below for details on ingredients etc.)—originally bought for protecting our dogs’ paw pads out in the hills. Occasionally I bark after application, but honestly, it’s been very effective on my pads too. Trenchfoot cream is a popular alternative if you don’t have a dog and Mushers Secret in the house. It’s specifically formulated in the South West for running humans, and has a vegan version too.
- Nail care – Keep them neat, well trimmed, and healthy.
- Socks and shoes – Crucial. I use:
- A thin merino wool liner
- A thicker waterproof outer (Dexshell, in my case—but many good options exist)
- This combo typically requires my daps to be half a size bigger; and for multi-day efforts, a full size up to allow for swelling.
- Shoe fit is key: close-fitting but not tight. It’s a balance between avoiding pressure points and limiting foot movement inside the shoe—especially when descending or traversing rough terrain. Finding your ideal lacing tension and fit will take trial and error, and vary depending on terrain, weather, route length etc.
- A thin merino wool liner
- Gaiters – Help keep debris out, protect socks, and improve comfort.
- Post-run care on multi-day events – At the end of each day, I strip off socks, moisturise again, and slip on dry, oversized Dexshells and a pair of gardening clogs. Overnight I sleep barefoot. And so far, without fail, my feet have been ready to go again the next morning; unlike the rest of my body!
- Socks and shoes – Crucial. I use:
The result? No blisters, maceration, or lost nails for the past two years since adopting this routine. However, I’ve spent a fair bit on moisturiser and socks…
Footnote to the footnote:
Musher’s Secret is made from 100% pure, natural, food-grade waxes—white and yellow beeswax, carnauba, and candelilla—blended with vegetable oils and vitamin E. It’s non-toxic, non-GMO, gluten-free, and creates a breathable barrier that protects against snow, salt, hot pavement, and rough terrain.
Images from my journey:
